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The evening before this most dreaded of parties I dropped by at Maurin’s with the pretext of “needing to finalize some important paperwork for his admission to our club.” I had to add “just kidding mate,” pretty damned quick, or I think he really would have shot me. I was, how can I put it? Mildly surprised to see Taz in the distance wielding a large orange axe with seldom seen dexterity, chopping a little wood for the fire. I said “hi Taz”, she replied “hi dad”, further embarrassment was delayed by the timely arrival of Steve on the kind of vintage racing bike that an be picked up by any dumpster, flying down the rough stone drive, both arms aloft, dressed only in a long flowing  yellow dressing-gown and plastic sandals.

He gracefully dismounted and insisted that the long suffering Maurin interviewed him, again!

“The great Steve Milliband has finally made it home and if I’m lucky, I might get some sense out of him, howdy Steve”

“Bonjour Nelson”

“Great ride today !”

“Oui, oui! bon ride aujourd’hwee, trez bon.”  Feigning breathlessness.

“The peloton was extremely vigilant today Steve.”

“Oui, oui, extremement vigilant n’est pas Nelson?”

“But you held on for quite a few kilometres didn’t you?

“Oui, bien sur j’ai tenoo quelques petits kilometres Nelson”

“But in the end Lance was too strong for you.”

“Oui, a la  fin, Lance etait trop fort pour moi.”

“To sum up then Steve, would it be fair to say a banana is a dildo to a lovestruck camel?”

“Oui, tout a fait Nelson, oui, oui, exactement….”

” Steve, can you confirm the rumours that the boys on the Tour call you mellow Jell-o?”

” Oui, oui and quite rightly.”

“Before you go could you tell us a little about your famous tactics of starting every race like a bat out of hell, only to always finish last?”

“Oui, oui… There are deux choses which I ne comprend pas dans this world, first  le income tax and then pourquoi le cycling est un team sport?”

“Always a pleasure to talk to one of cycling’s true greats, better get back to the team bus now Steve, smoke a little something to enhance those language skills…”

My real reason for coming here of course was to try to find out a  bit more about  this Maurin bloke, he had joined our club, but any time soon he could join the family or at worst become the good friend of a best friend. I really had no idea of what was going on here and it did worry me a little, only friend beer soaked bravado would even think of telling you otherwise. I had been wondering for a couple of days just how I was going to broach the subject: “Tell me a little something about yourself old chap” or  ”Good morning, I’d like to talk to you about shirts.” Nothing I could think of sounded quite right and if I practised aloud, quite wrong. I would have to watch and wait.

Maurin treated us all to another taste of his home-grown cuisine, Taz and Steve had a blistering attack of the munchies, while the host and I sedately enjoyed a bottle of Aigo Ardento as a perfect complement to an excellent lamb tajine with dried figs, apricots and a sweet chestnut couscous.  As Steve began a ham-fisted attempt at clearing the table, the genial one produced a little something he had prepared earlier, a gently smouldering hookah for two, announcing that “the gentlemen would be indulging in a little Nucky Delight, and no, I don’t include you Steve, I have a funny feeling that Mr Rodney here has something he would like to discuss with me.”

“Too polite to be honest” I was thinking darkly, and also rather hoping that Taz would not offer to do the dishes. She didn’t.

My moment had come, we were alone at opposing ends of a Steve’s unfinished table, resin rings floating deliciously all around us we sat in silence, when suddenly without really thinking about it, the right words just came to me: “Who the fuck are you?”

As if I had taken those words straight from his mouth he laughed back, “Rodney, you will know who I am, and I will tell you everything, but first my friend, you are in my house so who the fuck are you?”

“Touché” I murmured crossly, but it was only a scratch. Alright, if this was how he wanted it, fine.

“I’m Rodney. Skirvishely by name and  nature, heir abhorrent, and it would be me that asks the questions….. muffin man.”

Sensing my reluctance and love of the absurd he asked only that I tell him why I was here, in France, with my lovely daughter and the wackjob? I could see no real reason to deny myself the pleasure of telling  a preposterous story and as he was visibly sitting  very comfortably, I began:

“Not long ago, somewhere in Valencia county, New Mexico I was trying to score a ten bob deal when I came across a pitiful one-armed, half blind amputee deep in honest contemplation, but I asked him anyway. ‘Where can I get some weed in this no horse town?’ He looked me up and down, or at least that was the way I figured it, then he looked me up and down again and said “Don’t look for Mary Janes or sticky greenies in this county as the quality of our law enforcement prohibits the use of them, head east over yonder to Collobrières, France, for there you will find what you are searching for son, the hillsides are full of it. C. Sativa Linn. Those Frenchies say the darnedest things. Lookee lookee yonder!”

“That’s not quite the same story Miss Pinky your daughter told me the other night”. The chump was smirking at me,” quite chatty she is after a few puffs, oh yes, speaking of which, Steve told me he met you last week for the first time in that restaurant……”

Infidels! But my lips were sealed, he would not get another word out of me until I had enjoyed his riposte. How dare he call her miss Pinky anyway?

“OK Rodney, here goes, I was born into a rather well to do family in Marseille…….”

I looked at him askance hoping to convey the message that I was surprised to hear that there were any such families in that dog end of a town, but he chose to ignore me and went on.

“My father is French and had been a heart surgeon at the Hôpital La Timone and later a deputé……No not a Bo Diddely deputy sheriff…” He responded to another of my famous funny looks, “A member of parliament if you prefer, and leaning quite heavily to the right I’m afraid to say. As for my mother, well she was definitely English, but I have never been quite sure if she was an actress, an opera singer or just an over dramatic hooker with an annoying singing voice.”

“Well that was a pretty good start”, I was thinking, “go on Maurin, please…”

“I did try school for quite a number of years” he continued, lost in thought, as if he were reliving those presumably dreadful moments, ” I really tried, but learning endless lists of words, subjected to three or more tortuous dictations a day, being  frequently reminded of how important it was to vote, not to mention the enforcement of that strictest of republican certitudes; that we were all the same, made me a very unhappy boy. I who was so different from all those retarded French kids, me whose mother tongue was God’s own and of course the little lad who knew only too well of the vital necessity not to vote, particularly in the eighth arrondissement of Marseille.”

“All three of you then Maurin? More more!”

“School became ever more tiresome as I began to realise that I was learning nothing at all, apart from a language that I dislike and had very little use for. All subjects you see are  just thinly veiled French  language lessons, even in history or biology tests, all the answers are  already on the paper in the form of pretty pictures, graphs and extracts of text. All you have to do is to re-write or paraphrase or do a cute précis in your best French and you’re done…. You must have wondered Rodney why French people appear to be so stupid? No? Well they aren’t strictly speaking any stupider than anybody else, they just don’t actually know anything. Nothing at all.”

“This can’t be true!” I interrupted him, genuinely incredulous, “what about all this we hear about their system being the best in the world and the famous bacca something or other Eh?”

“I’m afraid it is true Rodney, and for them it is the best mass educational system in the whole wide. Why? Because by basing the entire thing on the ability or not to master an impossible language, they neatly divide the populace into three disproportionate categories: the few that can spell really, really well go on to be senior administrators and captains of industry. Those who can write a sentence with only a few grammatical  errors can become lowlier public servants and live in complete security on a very meagre salary, and the rest, the soft underbelly of society, just know their place and are happy to be looked after and bullied by their undoubted betters. There is a hidden fourth group, who are referred to as ‘Beurs’, but they don’t count, they’re put away, out of sight in special places.”

Not often do I learn anything from a fellow man, even Google himself would be hard pushed to impart this kind of life-changing information, of course it had to be true, like British table manners, the French spout utter bullshit, but do so beautifully. This was priceless; to know that policemen, schoolteachers, mayors of small towns had risen to their noble occupations only on the merit of being able to read write and speak an almost obsolete language but had no other knowledge or understanding? This I could, and surely would, use to my advantage.

“I finally walked out  of school the day my maths teacher said ‘La mathématique, c’est aussi la redaction’. I went home without even bothering to tell him to sodomize himself with a retractable baton, and informed my mother that she was morally and duty bound to teach me how to be a Brit. Enough of indefinite relative pronouns, genders, conjugation and having my maths papers mutilated for a spelling mistake, enough, being British was my birthright.”

I am not easily impressed, in fact he hadn’t really told me very much at all, but walking out of school without a final gratuitous insult to your maths teacher was a remarkable achievement in itself. I was warming to the boy and was impatient to find out how his mother had managed to turn an effete little French robot into what he undoubtedly appeared to be today, a proud and loathsome Brit. According to Maurin she had accepted his demand with relish but first she had to make sure he could read and write in English. She began her very first lesson with a study of the inside cover of her passport… Maurin had read it aloud fluently with a tear in his eye:

“Her Britannic Majesty’s Secretary of State requests and requires in the Name of Her Majesty all those whom it may concern to allow the bearer to pass freely without let or hindrance, and to afford the bearer such assistance and protection as may be necessary…”

Once this formality was over she had outlined what she considered to be a very cunning plan indeed: he was to major in pop music, from Abba to Zappa with a good deal of abba zabba, beatle bones and smoking stones in between. He would study the beautiful game in all its glorious statistical glory, and finally he would be fed on a diet of British sit-coms and soaps and would be expected to re-enact Monty Python sketches, verbatim, every morning at breakfast. As for the minor subjects, he chose suburban property prices, Mediterranean holidays and an option to speak knowledgeably on all things related to cars, paying particular attention to lying about great deals on air conditioning and heated leather upholstery. He voluntarily passed on reading the tabloid newspapers and eating baked beans and spam for breakfast, dinner or tea.

“So what exactly are you doing here and now in this place? Why did you never go to England, you would have blended in so easily? ” I asked him without really expecting or caring about the reply, the Nucky Balls had left me happy and smug but almost inanimate. He told me that in the end being half French, he actually didn’t give a crap about cars, house prices, holidays, pop music or even football; he just enjoyed a quiet life with all the good things thrown in for free. He loved his freedom and would specifically recommend an ASP219 retractable baton to anybody who tried to tell him how to live his life.

He did have one last thing to ask me, and as the night was getting on and we had a big day ahead of us.”Just tell me, please Rodney”. As I was slipping out of the smoky heavens of Erewhon into the enticing land of nod I’m quite sure I heard him say, ” The one thing I really don’t understand after all those years of studying sport, pop music and and television, I still don’t get it…….Bob Wilson, anchorman?”

I had a feeling that this year was going to be a special one, I knew that something out of the ordinary would happen to brighten up my life in this humdrum town. That’s one of the reasons I decided to drink more beer, give fate a helping hand. So far I have managed to lose a highly expensive motorcycle and misplace my teenage daughter. How good does it get? How I wish I could get a message to her grody mother, tell her that Taz was shacked up with two crazy guys over in Saint Tropez and that I was pretty sure they were smoking reefers!

Steve and Taz, like the spoilt little five year-olds that they are had refused to leave Maurin’s party, she was going to stay put with her precious Nucky Balls and he claimed that the sea air was so invigorating and the hill climbs so much more of a challenge. Good luck to them both if they wanted to spend their days getting stoned and shooting things for food and profit, I at least could concentrate on  my new hobbies of shopping and drinking, although everyone knows that beer ain’t  really drinkin’.

Dillmart had rekindled my love of beer and given me a completely different vision of how to buy things that I didn’t even know existed, let alone want, and then try to stuff them into my saddlebags. One day I decided to be a little more adventurous and head towards a monstrous Centre commercial on the outskirts of Toulon. My days of going to the local butcher with the desire to purchase a chicken would be well and truly behind me, so instead of him being alternately rude and polite I was sure that all the staff in these places would just be plain ill-mannered and offensive. Wouldn’t you be if you had to work in one of them?

I am glad that once again I decided to stick with the moped, as parking a car at IKEA is not recommended for short tempered persons such as myself especially when their bladders are screaming as a result of one of the six or so bottles of DiuretiKbourg I had already consumed on the way here. IKEA? Now what the heck could that stand for? I Knew Eamonn Andrews?  I, Kierkegaard, existentialist asshole? Speaking of cheese sandwiches……As I pulled up right outside the building, I was delighted to see that cigarette smoking was finally back in fashion, everybody tentatively patting their pockets in turn searching for a packet, lighting up, relieved and drawing hard; as if the jury had just reached its verdict. What on earth was behind those revolving doors? I had to find out.

Anyone who has had the occasion to visit one of these stores will know what happened to me inside. Yes I had a pee, obviously. Then I grabbed a grossly inappropriate quantity of little half-cut pencils, began to follow the direction arrows on the floor and soon found myself hopelessly lost and completely disorientated. I tried leaving a trail of pencils behind me as a trackback, but since I was not the only one to do this, it  made matters a little worse.

This condition went on for some time and deteriorated sevenfold shortly after my second visit to the cafeteria for meatballs beer and Brussels sprouts. I had of course wearied of looking at the crap they had on display and began instead to study my fellow patrons, who like me were wandering about fazed and a little bemused, desperately trying to find the exit without actually showing any signs of panic. It’s fun to be clean, its nice to be neat, for people are happy when they are neat and they are clean.

Everyone has their own personal methods of stress management, mine is singing.

My bright idea to follow someone who was actually using the pygmy pencils for their designed purpose of jotting down unlikely names on the scraps of paper I had at once rejected, turned out to be sound. I should be named employee of the month, but I found out later that a fellow called Kevin had already beaten me to it. I stuck close to one of these brave chaps until I was finally led into a vast and resounding  ill-foreboding warehouse. This was the penultimate hurdle before my escape, for between these massive shelves of flat boxes and the check-outs of salvation, lay another little island of fluorescent plastics and miscellaneous objects. I assumed, in my confused state, that I had to buy an arbitary selection before being allowed out. They were mainly things for storing other things in to keep your house tidy and nice, but I just grabbed a pink watering-can, a big yellow firewood bag and a box of candles, paid with my trusty Amex card almost without incident.

“You must take a blue bag sir, the yellow ones are not for sale” said the smiling youth at the desk

“But I like yellow and its a present for Steve”.

“Take a fucking blue one!” said Kevin politely.

Fearing another microphone incident, I took a fucking blue one and rushed outside for a smoke.

Next stop, after a bit of mischievous jay-walking; Decathlon, sporting goods for all the family. Now what could this name possibly signify? I hope I won’t have to spend two days in there, hopping, jumping and throwing things around. Here of course there was no smoking, no stress. In fact brightly feathered, out here on the perimeter they were well-groomed, immaculate.

I wasted a good half an hour  hanging about in the reception area looking for freebies until I finally agreed with a white shirt black pants walkie-talkie guy that I should move on. “What no pencils!” I was ambling down the aerobics department and just about to turn into le stretching, idly daydreaming about living at the bottom of the sea and killing anything that came near me, when my phone rang. My ringtone don’t sound funny I’m sure! It was my favourite daughter, Stoned Taz.

“Hi dad, I have news.  Lorraine and that slimy bastard Lister are sailing into town at the weekend  and throwing a private party on the yacht. Please say you’ll come daddy. For me!”

“Sure.”

“I’d better tell you now, that I suggested fancy-dress, so that they wouldn’t feel too out of place.”

“Well that was awfully considerate you darling, but you know I loathe dressing up, and where am I going to find an outfit at such short notice?”

But she had hung up; got me to say I’d come and buggered off, crafty little so and so.

So here I was more than tipsy, alone in a sportswear mega-store with an invitation to a stupid fancy dress do on a ketch in Saint Tropez. whatever was I going to do?

Meandering through soccer, cycling and ten pin bowling, I had my second brilliant idea of the day. I know you had all thought of it long ago, but don’t forget the beer. So what was it to be? A fearless huntsman in full camouflage a murderous dagger and a real gun? A gay golf pro, an overweight jockey or a paramedic scuba-diver? I just couldn’t decide, so in the end I started to pick up random ill-assorted articles from all the departments. I say random, but I was really concentrating on items that I knew would be too tight, were made of fake Lycra and most of all, things that had the most bizarre brand names with misspelled garbage written all over them.  What you may ask was the thinking behind this plan, or indeed was there any at all? Yes, Yes, I shall be attending this party as Everyman, the Decathlon Dick Head. hoorah for Rodney!

I got home late, very late. A punk stopped me on the street and said: ” Have you got a light Mac”?

I said  ”No, but I’ve got a plastic watering can, a shiny pink leisure suit with ‘OM! Droit au But!’ written all over it and a  blue shopping bag. ‘Ere, you can have it.  Not a patch on the ones you get in Dillmart.”

I don’t think I  have ever spoken to Steve much before late afternoon. Now I know why. Like all avid newspaper readers, the early morning was his time to entertain people with interesting and little known facts: “Did you know there is only one variety of banana? The Mark Cavendish, did you know…” He even tried it on with the waiter. ” Le saviez-vous ? vingt cinq pour cent des Tellytubbies sont rouge?” Then back to me, a coffee and croissant cocktail dribbling down his chin “Did you know that a big legged woman ain’t got no soul?”  That’s just hearsay Steve I interrupted,  and by the way, did you know that ….” His face lit up, I was playing too! I didn’t have the heart to go on. But  honestly, what an asshole…Six bottles of wine in his bloodstream was like a hot cocoa and gingerbread nightcap to this drug crazed lunatic.

We woke Taz with a bucket of cold water, ” We need to get your bike back.”

The directions to “Chez Maurin” sounded simple enough, ” Head back towards Collobrieres, turn left at the sequoia then just keep following the track for about three kilometres, you can’t miss it”. I didn’t expect those forest paths to be a particularly easy ride, but when we finally pulled up outside his humble dwelling, me with Taz strapped on to the luggage rack, my balls felt like that celebrated pair of maracas. Steve was just fine, he had finally received his justly deserved free croissants and had pedalled his mount all the way without any help from the motor on the strength of them.

We were here on business, sure, but the beauty of the place left me a little lost for words. The house  was what is known in this part of the world as a cabanon, not quite a house, but more than just a cabin. An ancient two storey stone built affair, carefully restored and  if you were lucky enough for the thing to appear on Napoleonic records  from 1815, even the local authorities tended to say “aw who gives a fuck anyway?”. So it was legal, but not really, a dwelling place but not a house, it didn’t really exist at all. But it did.

The tiny home was set in quite a sizeable clearing in the otherwise densely overgrown cork forest, here were  happily grazing critters: two donkeys, a handful of sheep and a couple of greedy goats. A huge parasol pine hung immobile over the house and its vast terrace, overlooking, I will spare you a clichéd description of the glistening turquoise Mediterranean below, but honestly, it was stunning. Looking about us, even Steve was touched to see a little basket by the front door containing a tiny fox cub and a pair of cheeky little weasels, completely tame and highly trained to deal with unwanted visitors.

The place was clearly way off the grid; we had seen no sign of a mailbox, no cables or posts for miles around, just a beautifully crafted stone well and the pleasingly aromatic scent of fig wood burning on a fire within. All this just confirmed my previous notion that we were dealing with a thoroughly extraordinary fellow and Steve’s that he was a hippy douche. Taz had had enough of our admiring procrastination and was about kick down the door with a vicious boot

“Give me my fucking bike back butt head!”

She had miscalculated on two counts, one, the door was not actually closed and two, had she not been clad head to toe in thick biker leather, those weasels would surely have ripped her flesh. She escaped with just the humiliation of being picked up and dusted down by the powerful but gentle hands of the handsome thief.

“Beautiful Zelda from galaxy four suddenly broke down my door” He greeted us in an oddly incongruous south London accent, “welcome my friends”.  We were not friends, this was awkward. He then offered us an aperitif, and noticing the look of utter horror on all our faces, quickly added, “no, not that sort, I meant something that really will give you a great appetite”, pointing as he spoke to a roughly hewn cork platter stacked high with little greeny-brown and misshapen easter eggs.

“That’s horse-shit you moron!”

“TAZ!” I reprimanded her as severely as a hungover father can tax his own beautiful and recently mortified daughter.

“No!” she said almost apologetically,” I mean it really is horse shit, can’t you tell? Does anyone truly believe that I am going to eat that………..” “…..Ass crap”, Maurin intervened, ” nicely dried out and cured, it is almost certainly the finest thing you will have ever smoked”.

Not at all convinced, but relieved that it was not edibilia, we took our places at a long monastic table as Maurin produced a, well fat-boy is not the word, this thing was seriously obese. With just one toke, Taz knew instantly what was in the joint and precisely where it had come from. Steve and I braced ourselves for a distinctive  and all too familiar foul-mouthed onslaught but were to be disappointed.

As the big thing did its rounds, the magic followed: Taz was serene, smiley and hardly abrasive and rude at all, Steve was more than ever convinced that even if the world was a mess, his hair was nothing short of perfect. A wondrous substance indeed! Maurin was explaining, as if it were even necessary, how one of his donkeys, Nucky by name, had returned after a three day absence, stoned out of his extremely tiny mind and had not stopped laying these golden nuggets ever since. “I call them Nucky Balls!” Smiling broadly. I forgot to mention that by this time, I myself was feeling absolutely bloody fantastic, as strong as an ox and wiser than the wisest man in Wisconsin. I demanded an immediate and private interview with “Nucky, the funky junky donkey”.

A little while later we all began to realise just how hungry we were and our genial host responded with the makings of a feast which turned into full blown banquet. Plate after plate of Daube de sanglier, Faisan en croûte, civet de lapin.… A huge jar of tiny goats cheeses in olive oil, freshly picked rocket salad and some odd but truly delicious bright orange mushrooms lightly grilled in his figgy fireplace. All of this washed heartily down with a respectable red from his large personal vat. A triumph Maurin! Really.

The table talk was a buzz of undecipherable nonsense as we chomped and slurped away into a despicable state of well-being, or sod it, why not? Bien-être.  It was Maurin, once again who inevitably broke the spell: “I want to join your club!” he blurted out most unexpectedly, “you know, the Idiot Bastard Sons of Anarchy, I want in!” Steve looked at him crossly and informed him that “we don’t let just anybody  become a member you know” I said “try that again Steve but without the ‘just’ bit”.

“Oh dad, don’t be such a rotter, that’s simply unfair, why don’t you try him on one of your famous tests?”

” Goody, goody, I love tests” Maurin joked in a perfect imitation of Steve at his silliest. Taz giggled, it is a very long time since she has done that. Was she beginning to actually like this guy?

“I don’t know what your tests are, but give me a chance won’t you?” Speaking quite seriously now “I think I’m an anarchist because I live by my gun and my wits, I don’t pay any taxes or utility bills and I certainly don’t vote. I may not be a rich bastard like you three, but just like you, I don’t understand a fucking thing when I’m not stoned. Come on daddy, give us a break?”

How could I refuse?  ”OK. first question, music, you will have ten seconds in which to answer, whereupon you will hear this sound….”

“Get on with it Dad,” Tazzy all excited.

“Right, which band had a 1970 hit with Up Yours!”?

“The Edgar Broughton Band sir” He answered without hesitation to a massive round of applause from all of us.

“Let’s move on quickly to the practical part, any good at riding mopeds?”

Maurin’s field performance was a delight to behold, his mastery of the two-wheeled two-stroke defied  both belief and gravity, how could any man chase sheep through a stony field, blindfold and rolling a fresh joint at the same time? I think  this was the defining moment in their whirlwind romance, it was at this point that Steve finally began to fall in love with him.

He was in, of course he was, but just one last question: “how are you at prank phone calls?”

This was the icing on the cake. As long as someone, preferably Taz could show him how to use a ‘phone, he could imitate just about anybody from Nicholas Sarkozy to Eric Cantona, taking in any of those dickhead radio and TV presenters on the way, “if that’s the kind of thing you are looking for”?

Before I gave him the final nod, I asked Steve if he had any questions he would care to add. To my surprise the lovestruck wretch said that my musical question had been ridiculously easy and that anyway, it wasn’t fair because The Broughtons were my favourite band. Could he try him out on his own?

“Maurin” said Steve gravely, “which band had a minor 1967 hit with the song ”Not So Sweet Martha Lorraine”

” Ladies and gentlemen I’d like you to give a big hand to Mr. Country Joe and the Fish!”

Steve made a new year’s resolution too, not quite as infallible as my own and not quite a new year’s resolution either, more like something he should have done years ago: spend his wife’s cash. He invited me and daughter Taz to join him at his least favourite and most exclupensive restaurant in Saint Tropez: La Vieille Arnaque. “With alacrity, if not with pleasure” I replied blithely, leaping immediately onto my moped, “Ready when you are Bob.”

Steve agreed on the moped way even though he had planned on taking the pink Hummer, not just because we were going to saint Trop, but  ”Lest we should hit upon a huge flock of sheep on the way”. Yes he did mean hit upon, sick bastard, but that’s Steve for you. He has seen the needle and the damage done is sadly, irreparable.

It was the middle of the afternoon by my KDE clock set to seventy-five per cent fuzziness, so we reckoned that if Taz left on her Harley at early evening, we should all meet up at the restaurant at eight o’ clock sharp. We did.

A word here about Steve’s wife – whom I shall Always think of as Tammy – may be of interest. She is currently wintering in California, as just the thought of wearing a woolly jumper sends a chill all the way down to her butt. Woolly bully. Her one mediocre album from the late seventies “It Ain’t Necessarily Titties And Beer” has assured her a totally disproportionate and steady income ever since. Steve hates the bitch, but being British, all I can say is that I’m not frightfully fond of you either darling.

As we entered the crowded restaurant the diners fell instantly silent, probably due to Taz in her skin-tight let’s talk about leather outfit accompanied by two middle-aged weirdos , but no, it was in Steve’s honour. The hush turned into a rustle of tasteful applause with a few hoorahs and bravos added to emphasize the approval.

I always manage to forget that Steve is what is commonly known as a “Genius in France”, that is, a much mocked and derided figure of fun in his homeland, yet nothing short of a hero in the land of cheese and biscuits. In his heyday Steve had been a wildly unsuccessful professional bicycle rider whose exploits in the Tour de France in the eighties had gone largely unnoticed in the rest of the world but the French had placed him high on a pedestal, all the better to admire his magnificent calves. Think on’t Johnny Drama.

I quickly realised that Steve’s real motive for coming out on the town tonight was to cheer himself up. Not only had he been a little under the weather over the holidays, but ” I haven’t seen a fellow American since the last time I cut my hair”,  he lamented pathetically as we were at table expecting a waiter to appear and flatter us.

Maybe It's Because I Had The Flu For ChristmasMaybe It's Because I Had The Flu For Christmas

Taz was no better, the sour puss, but at least her reasons were more justified. A little sad because her long term boyfriend, Lister had upped and betrothed his good-self to some slag called Lozzi  whilst cruising on his monster yacht, The Turpitude, somewhere in the Algarve. Totally postal about the acts of vandalism and crass criminality which had been committed on our precious cannabis plantation a couple of days previously. Someone or something had completely ground-zeroed the place and she now had the daunting prospect of a life without weed for the dimly foreseeable future. I knew how she felt.

We had already decided on our order from the neatly scrawled bistrot chalkboard: Steve would have the woozy numbat with brisures of crystal meth. I would opt for the saber-toothed squirrel with candied lemon and cork oak acorns. Taz still in the dumps would just have “a packet of crisps and a pint of what Beckham over there is drinking”.

When Patrick, our waiter for the evening did come to take our order and be pleasing, he produced a crocodile tear as I mentioned the squirrel, “It’s the last one sir!” he sobbed. “Fine by me” I returned casually. “I mean the very last one in existence Monsieur” “Even better”, I quipped, “the squirrelling must go on and I  will be mentioned in school text books.” I knew he was just kidding, who doesn’t know that  saber-toothed squirrel is the codename for the Linux kernel 3.2-rc1?

As for the drinks, Taz got her pint of Pur Absolut crap and Steve and I were to share a dozen bottles of Chateau Sainte Anne de la Regurgitation, this is the only place in the world that sells it and was the reason behind choosing the mopeds to get here, and back!

I should mention here that as the food arrived, Steve committed the most unthinkable and loutish faux-pas by requesting tomato ketchup, now don’t expect a repetition of a similar scene in the Naked Lunch, this is France remember; no the waiter complied with a grin. It was I in fact  who was trembling, with my fingers crossed under the table, ” please lawdi let it be the 57 varieties variety and not a home made apology made with real organic tomatoes and balsamic bleeding vinegar”.

All was going down nicely, my little treetop flyer was exquisite, Steve’s favourite condiment had passed muster and even Taz was a bit more chatty. Emerging slowly from her own dystopian universe, which she had named “Jeans North”, she was imploring me to tell the story about spotting Bono moonlighting in that awful cheapskate supermarket, “Please daddy, again! Again! Just one more time, Pleeeese”

tazPleese!

This peaceful scene of amicable self-indulgence was violently interrupted when the restaurant doors crashed open and some guy walks in with a monstrous wild boar slung across his shoulders. He stood there staring disdainfully at us all and left the door wide open behind him. He was requested, rather politely I thought to “fermez la porte!”, but he just stood there looking more disgusted than ever. As if it were perfectly normal for a man to be standing with a 200 pound pig round his neck but totally unacceptable to enter a room without saying bonjour and closing the door, the demands for him to do so continued unabated.

Finally the man spoke: “This place is so full of bullshit, I won’t close the door until you’ve all had a blast of clean sea air. ” He was staring at the chalkboard and for a moment I thought he was going to spit on it, but he just shook his head sadly and dropped the hog noisily to the ground.

chalkNever mind the beetroot

Taz was quite at the end of her tether “Shut the fucking door, Retard!”

To which he replied, with maybe just a hint of sarcasm: “Well if I’d known that The Idiot Bastard Sons of Anarchy were here, why, I would have closed it long ago.” Our fame was spreading then?

The man was gone leaving all at our table to believe that this brief interlude had been a kind of dream, not to say hallucination. “What an extraordinary fellow”, I thought and said at the same time, “hippy douche” Steve agreed laconically, Taz said he reminded her of a sheep on meth. If this was all in our imaginations though, why was it taking six grown men to drag that huge slobbering beast into the back kitchens?

The soiree was drawing to a hazy conclusion, it was time for getting drunk and kick starting mopeds, but we were all out of wine. It did end though on a more cheerful note, the number of zeros on the bill were way in excess of our wildest attempts at thinking up numbers and doubling them, even the ketchup had reached three figures. It was a happy Steve then that handed over Tammy’s charge card to the beaming waiter.

When one doorway to happiness opens another one slams in your face, Patrick had  surreptitiously slipped a scrap of paper to Taz  with a handwritten message from the dead pig guy:

“If you want your bike back, come to my place in the morning, ask anyone for Chez Maurin………”

New year, new year’s resolution: drink more beer. Less of this nansy pansy, soul-destroying tea and coffee gut-rot, more manliness, more wholesome beer. A year or two back, one chilly January morning I vowed to give up alcohol completely. I am now sure this must have been the origin of the French expression “Un quart d’heure difficile”. This year it is going to be different, Mr Apollo himself could not even hope to bend my iron will.

It was Plato  I think, who said “It was a wise man who invented beer.”  Wise indeed, but also a great leveler. Even the stinkiest, richest bastard can only drink thirty or so pints a day, so despite his wealth, he really is no better off than me, which would be pretty difficult anyway, given the extent of my own personal fortune.

Regrettably, I myself am not a wise man, I have actually no idea where I should go to buy beer, or anything else for that matter; I do however have a couple of smart friends who pop into my brain from time to time. Little BSD, the Beer Swilling Devil would be a good chap to ask, faithful server  and a cute little bugger in those horrid green sneakers,  very reliable and comes with excellent documentation too. “Go to Lidl my friend, there you will find a splendid range of quality lagers, continental pilsners and much other beery goodness, all at very reasonable prices. Go, go now and bring me back a case of whatever is on special…”

Lidl! Screams the shiny smug unstable penguin that has installed himself uncomfortably on my laptop, Lidl?*#. The vilest place in the observable universe! Destroyers of small business and violators of human dignity, they will  take over our world  and dismantle it piece by piece. Don’t go my friend. Go instead to your nearest wine cooperative while there still is one, support local business and agriculture, buy some cheap wine and feel better about yourself.

“Thanks Tux but beer is what I need. Lidl it is.”

” OK, but don’t touch the Fink Brau. Shame in a bottle, trust me Rodney.”

I would never have thought that a town as posh as Sainte Maxime would host one of these reputedly unpleasant establishments, but they do, wait a minute, there’s one in Cogolin too, that’s a bit closer, these places are everywhere. So off I go, Lidl bound, over the hills and not so far away.

Well I found the place alright, that was the easy part, as I dropped in from Grimaud there was the filthy great sign, LIDL! There I found hordes of people milling around pushing and pulling on pram like things with tiny, tiny wheels, some piled high with groceries, some completely empty. I found this a little disturbing, a bit eery, why do people act this way? I hung around anyway to study them, look for a pattern, some logic, and then I finally worked it out. They go in one door with an empty barrow, then appear a bit later through an adjacent one with the darned thing full, looked like a lot of fun.

I then spotted a sort of makeshift shelter with lots of these wheely things all crushed together so I wandered over to grab one for myself. Crikey! They’re all locked up, WTF?  I stood there forlorn, scratching my head, that’s what perplexed people do, right?  Then out of nowhere, a sweet and very genteel sad-eyed lady took pity on me and firmly pressed a Euro coin in my hand saying  “Allez mon vieux, payez-vous quelques bieres avec ca!” How on earth had she got wind of my mission?

I was soon in the shop with my own personal perambulator, slip the coin in the slot and voila! How can they sell them so cheaply?

I tried to focus, I was looking for beer, the place was busy, hard to navigate. These trolley things may be dirt cheap but that’s no reason to abandon them, half full in the middle of the aisles. I seemed to be going round in circles, up and down, round and round, looking here, looking there, and then I was struck by a moment of pure happiness and  blinding revelation, after all these years of wondering, at last. This was a supermarket and I was all lost in it. Why had the song made no sense to me before?

I found the beer in the end. I just couldn’t believe my eyes as they darted between cans of Larsullrichbrau and huge bottles of Rammestein before they settled  finally on a stack of genuine English Old Scrotum Ale, two for the price of one! Free beer! Just wait till I get to tell the sanctimonious little penguin about this!  Sod the Reinheitsgebot  I myself would be entirely made up of water, malted barley and hopfen extract before the year was out. So I duly began to load my wheeliebarrow with just as many bottles that would fit without breakage, I got to 359 and had to stop, I could always come back the next day…

I teetered off triumphant towards the out door. Of course I had every intention of paying for them, how dare any of you think otherwise? I just wasn’t quite sure of the procedure, as I’ve said before, my unwisdom in these matters are pearls. Then I spotted the queues ahead of me barring the way to the exit. So this is how it’s done, the goods you have selected pass along a sort of conveyor belt until they are picked up by a blue-uniformed inmate who presents them to a primitive scanning device which then emits a high-frequency and annoying error message bleep. I could hardly wait for my turn.

When I did finally get on more intimate terms with Amandine, the angel in blue, she gave me what is possibly the dirtiest look I have ever encountered and said in a dreary French monotone: ” Please have the goodness to place all the items in your ‘caddy’ on the belt”

“No” I said pleasantly, handing her a selection of credit cards. “you count . There are 359 of them, word of a gent.”

She repeated her demand as if it were a recording but added nastily, I have to check that you are not trying to nick something”

Nick something! How can someone called Amandine be such a hard faced bitch? I tried again to reason with her and softly recited Joe Strummer’s touching lyrics, looking for sympathy. ” There was a wall back in the suburbs, over which I never could see”. She was unmoved, uncomprehending and I don’t know if this is appropriate for a serving lass, but here goes, Intransigent. ” Please have the goodness to place all the items in your ‘caddy’ on the belt or I will be obliged to call the overseer”

I remained calm and bashful, explaining that the green thing in my hand was an American Express card and that she was supposed to say “That will do nicely Sir”.

In response to my perceived dumbness, she grabbed a handy microphone and before I knew it she was braying “Monsieur Warwick Hunt is required at check-out three, Monsieur Warwick Hunt!”.

Within seconds a mean looking fat guy in over tight green pants and a crumpled white shirt was easing himself through the crowds in my direction. For a moment I was convinced it was Peter Griffin, puffing and panting as he approached. Imagine my surprise and dismay when I realised it wasn’t Griffin at all, it was Bono! It was, it was really him, slightly plumper than I remembered, but definitely Bono, not word of a lie. When he saw me  his face lit up with a brilliant smile.

“Quel honneur! Monsieur X”, he proclaimed in his inimitable where the fuck do I come from brogue. “I find you here in our own humble, err,” looking oddly at my booty….. “Beer Depot.”  ”The beers are on me!” he boomed in obvious delight, for all the world as if he was the Milky Bar Kid.

 After all these years in hiding, all these years of anonymous gallivanting, there had  finally been a sighting; Bono spotted me in a Lidl! Can you believe that!?

I was off, as fast as my little legs and the laden caddy would let me, resolving to start growing a long shaggy beard the moment I got home.

Just as the automatic doors slipped open, I turned to take one last look. Did I shave my legs for this?  Then Bono, grinning stupidly said “I see you have the same problem with your trousers as I do”. This I took to mean, I won’t tell on you if you keep mum about me.” So it definitely was Bono then, see!

Here’s a little sketch I did to while away the time waiting for the beard to grow, solid proof I think, just in case there are still any doubters out there.

Jad and I get together once a year to brainstorm, we bump into each other more or less every day, but in  early October a sub-committe of  the Idiot Bastard Sons of Anarchy, the LAPD, has serious work to do. Rodney is inevitably absent, his new friend Maurad has returned from Morocco and they are off on their mobylettes to visit Le Luc en Provence, a stunningly beautiful ride over the Maures mountains in the glorious autumn sunshine. At the lofty summit of Notre Dame des Anges they will stop briefly to admire the panoramic views before dropping down to the quite different landscape on the other side. They have gone I believe to stock up on Lidl carrier bags, known for their legendary reliability and outstanding authenticity when stuffed with firewood and tied on the back of a moped. Rodney also believes that these things are actually a statement: “Here is both an unmitigated cheapskate and a man unable or unwilling to distinguish between good and evil.” Rodney in a nutshell. Not only do they sell these exceedingly good bags, they also do very cheap beer.

Maurad's MountainsMaurad's Mountains

Knowing my two friends they will be stocking up on that too and drinking one or two on the way home in Pierrefeu-du-var. I know they will be doing this, because the consumption of alcohol in public places has recently been outlawed in this town. Infantile Rodney provocation, sure, but it would be funny to see how the dumb Gendarmes will deal with a middle aged American and an Arabian seed merchant in flagrante delicto.  Fine work Rodney.

Back to the LAPD, the Law-Abiding Pranks Department. The three of us have been trying to nuke the annual Chestnut Festival for about five years now, without notable success, a comedy of stupid errors in fact. Like the year we decided to Rick Roll the whole town from a secret rooftop location; the crowds just loved it, as it totally drowned out the official out of tune quartet with an outstanding repertoire of monotony. Utter failure.

Rick RollRick Roll

Another time, Rodney had the wickedly cunning idea of a bomb scare, which had he been successful would have caused absolute havoc. Unfortunately he elected to make the call himself, only he spoke in English with a totally unconvincing Irish accent; his call was of course dismissed. With hindsight, maybe a good thing, as it could very easily have backfired on us, the prank I mean, not the bomb, because of course it was a hoax. Please tell me it was a hoax Rodders.

There have been countless other mischievous attempts to disrupt and disturb this annual outrage and petty crime against humanity; dropping stink bombs, redesigning the traffic system by heaving the no-parking signs and barriers into the river, doing rain dances, all to no, or very little avail.

The only ruse that we all assume did succeed, does not fulfill all the requirements of a practical joke and so does not count. My wife has pragmatically adopted the – if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em –  approach. She has a stand where she sells her very own and quite appalling chestnut  flavored  spread with a label that would suggest that it is better tasting and much better for you than Nutella itself. The joke is that I have been lacing her mixture for some years now with a very potent dose of homegrown marijuana, but since nobody yet has opened the jar and tucked in immediately- she does not supply plastic spoons, bless her – I have never enjoyed the pleasure of witnessing their discomfort.

This year it is going to be different. From the dubious comfort of Rodney’s cellar we will prepare an illustrated news story about the day the good people of Collobrieres finally rebelled and went on a burning, breaking and robbing rampage on the eve of the festival’s sickening opening ceremony. Jad would take care of the writing part, being half French he has a little understanding of the vagaries of spelling and grammar. Rod’s daughter would take care of the photoshopping, for she – unbeknownst to her father is herself no stranger to the dual boot –  only she goes with Fedora and TinyXP, with a fully functional  copy of CS5 extended  courtesy of TPB. What’s more she knows how to use it. Yet another point for home-schooling.

Totally confident that this year’s scheme  would finally be a winner, because we would post our work on as many news hungry French sites as we could, on a Sunday too, so they wouldn’t be able to verify it, Jad and settled I down for a few more self satisfied drinks.

My normally untroubled mind has been a little less so since Jad finally took his leave. Why on earth did he ask to borrow my stetson and what use could he possibly have for a fake mustache from the props box…………………?

Question; who would make the – let’s just call it arduous – journey from Albuquerque New Mexico to Collobrieres France  just  for a 24 hour stopover? Answer; the bleary eyed mustachioed dude in a stetson that I found on my doorstep late this afternoon. Why would he do this you may well ask? As we stand, staring at each other in disbelief I have absolutely no idea. One night in Bangkok? Just maybe, at a pinch, but here?

I’m not sure if he actually did say “howdy” as he offered me his hand and said in a gruff voice “Raylan”, which I took to be his name, but I did invite him in and proffered a cold beer, which he politely refused as it didn’t feature on his list of refreshing summer drinks. Homemade lemonade on the other hand would be more than welcome. I sat him down with a bottle of Pschitt! He quenched his thirst without comment.

It was hard to squeeze much conversation out of this guy without beer, but I did learn that he was Ray Lannigan, Ice-cream king of Wagon Wheel NM and that he was here because he smelled opportunity; my Dear and recently departed friend Phyllis had in her wisdom written a small piece in The Curry County Tribune about her recent joyous holiday, also posted a couple of summer fun pictures online. All that Ray had grasped from this was that everybody in this town moshed  around with an  ice-cream in their face and what’s more it was any flavor you like, as long as its chestnut. The opportunity of a lifetime to a man of Raylan’s calibre. He had been planning to stay the night in The Expanded Backside, again on Phyllis’s recommendation, but this was festival time and it was fully booked until the end of the month. Could he “flop the night with me?”

Well he sure  didn’t seem like a bundle of laughs to me, but how often does Rodney, Duke of Yendor get to entertain visiting Royalty?  ”Sure”  and I showed him and his little bag to the great guest room in the sky where he could rest shower and change. “Thanks but I’ll pass on the shower and changing bit.”

An hour or so later came the inevitable, the part that I always dread when visiting Americans are in town. Ray announced that he was “so darned hungry” he would even consider eating cheese. I can’t remember how many times I have sworn I will never set foot in a restaurant with an American again. Justified.

He hadn’t been able to stomach the unfamiliar offerings of Air France nor had he been able to make himself understood since he set down in Paris some ten hours previously. How he got here at all with nothing but a scrap of paper with my name and address scribbled on it is more than a little worrying.

“OK Ray”,  I say a bit too harshly ” but first I’m going to lay down a few ground rules about dining out in this country. Firstly, things usually start out with an aperitif or two, invariably Pastis with ice and a jug of water; we don’t drink mugs of  milky coffee with our meals and beer is considered uncouth, just wine or water. Got it?” He nodded strangely, I continued. “It is customary to use a knife and fork; with the knife in the right hand, or even a knife and crusty piece of bread in the left hand The meal will last several hours and of course please try to remember that in Europe  a waitress is considered to be a fully paid up member of the human race. Hands off! If you pay for the meal, I will take care of the tip,  as  I know from experience you will never, ever be able to get your head around French tipping. Finally, the meal will almost certainly finish with the smug and sweaty chef offering us a glass of his special reserve firewater, reserved specially that is, for the clients he has ripped off the most that evening, and that my friend is going to be us. Still with me?” He was, but maybe it was just the long journey and lack of food that made him look so jaundiced.

I wouldn’t normally be dumb enough to eat in a restaurant that I knew was for sale, would you? The safest bet is to eat somewhere recently opened, still trying to please, bending over backwards is even better. They never put up for sale signs  of course, but budding central scrutinizer that I am, I happen to know that The Terrasse Provencal is on the market for a cool one and a half million dollars. What’s more, I had a plan. Happy in the knowledge that they would take any credit card Ray could throw at them, two dudes in stetsons were out on the town.

It was apparent that Ray considered the French national aperitif to be some kind of awful patent medicine, but he swigged it willingly and it had the same effect on him as on those that actually enjoy the stuff; instant-on loud and fervent chatter, borderline obnoxious. As he outlined his great plans for a string of Raylan’s ice-cream parlours, I noted with relief that our waitress – obviously hand-picked by the proprietor’s wife – was more like Winston Churchill in drag than anything he was likely to grope – but the night was young and I remained vigilant. My reputation in this town was already at rock bottom, but with Ray around it could always take a turn for the worse.

The meal itself went surprisingly well; we had meat and potatoes, puddings, even some cheese, and zero vegetables, washed down with bottle after bottle of Chateau Bastidon Rose wine that Ray was drinking as if it was Bud, no, not straight from the bottle stupid, I soon put a stop to that. After some slightly sobering strong black coffee, the greasy blob duly popped out of his kitchen brandishing an old fashioned looking bottle with a whole fat pear inside and came to our table with two tiny glasses. His trite and oft repeated speech fell on deaf ears, for Raylan was into yet another tear-jerking rendition of his favorite song  Lonesome Cowboy Bert - there’s the Zappa for those of you not expecting it – and only had eyes for the serving Wench.

I had a feeling that it was a bit too late to explain That Dr. Phyllis MacFarlane, careers adviser at Clovis Community College and Socorro Miss Personality 1975 was entirely responsible for his unfortunate misunderstanding. If she had seen, has she no doubt had, that Collobrieres had been dubbed both the capital of the Maures and chataignes, then she would empirically deduce that these words were synonyms for ice-cream in the language of Moliere, hence the confusion. It was, far too late. I don’t think we were actually thrown out of the diner or even sang anymore on the way home, kicked any cats or peed through anyone’s letterbox . My next recollection was Sunday morning.

“Howdy Rod” He did say it this time of that I’m sure, also that  I never seen a man so bright and so early on a Sunday. He had already been into town and bought fresh croissants and a local map, how much French did he learn last night? The coffee was percolating nicely and Ray was bubbling with excitement sticking pins into the map and sounding like he was playing solo Monopoly. Two motels here and here, a proper gas station here with a Toyota dealership and a car wash. A fast-food outlet here here and here. Jeez Rod, there are thousands of people out there with nothing to eat but some kind of nut, the likes of which I haven’t seen since the last time I took a shower, and he grinned for the first time since we’d met.

He was gobbling pastries, slurping coffee looking at his watch and talking all at the same time, like a man who had left his helicopter running on the outskirts of town……?

“Look Rodney, you take care of the relocation incentives, tax breaks and recruitment subsidies – ship in some Chinks if you need to – as we agreed last night – and I’ll be back in a week, oh and you can tell greaseball that since his place is over  three hundred years old, its time for a  freaking refit, one million cash, that’s my final offer.”

And he was gone… Pschitt!

Lesson learned, they’ll have to change the slogan “Collobrieres  Capital des Maures” to something they might understand in Eddy or Grant County, Roxy and elsewhere; something like: ” Collobrieres, we’re growing, come join us.”

We are growing, just not what they’d think.

 

 

Ted and Rodney have now been locked in the basement for a little over 36 hours now, trying to tweak a dual boot of Slackware 3.1 and Minix. The only lilo configuration that interests me however is the inflatable kind, on the beach. We have been blessed with the most extraordinary fine weather due to a massive anti-cyclone over western Europe which much to Rodney’s glee stops dead at the Belgian border. I am making the daily hazardous trip on an ancient borrowed cyclomoteur from Collobrieres to Le Lavandou to bronze my glorious butt on a broad  fat and virtually empty sandy beach and return with an oversized gallon jar of equally fabulous rose wine, served petrol pump style from a brilliant vineyard  that I pass on the way. This is paradise, the gadda da vida.

I have doubts about the thinking behind the emblazoned scrawl on the back of my obviously borrowed leather motorcycle jacket. TIBSA “The Idiot Bastard Sons of Anarchy” This is some club that Rod has recently signed up with, who’s mission seems to be behave like naughty little boys and see what you can get away with. Sounds like fun, sure, but he’s not getting any younger and he’s trapped underground with my husband. We love Rodney, always have, but the low spark of these moped boys? They will soon be the men in suits buying proper cars at the expense of your dreams Rod.

Anyway, enough of that. Good morning, I’d care to purchase a chicken please. We have settled right down to the kind of a bread cheese and wine routine that would make the folks back home in Curry County chunder. What is it now, you great pillock? Ten pints of sun warmed rose a night for three, cheese that smells like Hank Baskett’s armpits and bread that you can actually break. we’re good, me Teddy and Rod, very good. Ah, certainly sir, some stuffing? Awesome actually.

Back and forth, back and forth, five liters a day the well balanced way. Unsustainable is not one of my favorite words, but the boys are right, bright pink and permanently sozzled is not the place for me to be right now. Ted has got his laptop sorted out; all this way for a dual boot? What’s wrong with the friendly old IRC channel? Use your own, you great poofy poonagger. Rodney, ever the diploma, cuts to the cheese: ” @#$! off back to Clovis and leave me alone”  For he has great work still to accomplish, here in Collobrières. Tough titties if he  didn’t, you nasty spotted prancer.

Phyllis.

We arrived in the quite lovely and picturesque village of Collobrieres rather early this morning and found the little house that our old friend Rodney had recommended quite easily, despite the jet-lag.  We had seen the website and frankly who could resist  the trapeze fashion with an expanded backside? Well Ted never could, I think that is why he married me, and here we are. Towards sundown after intermittent napping, what is it about roaring power tools and heavy hammers around here? Ted suggested that since Rod was  typically indisposed, we should go out for dinner and see a movie, more like let’s download a movie then go out for dinner, the wifi connection seemed to have plenty of bandwidth so he had his laptop hooked up and was already perusing The Pirate Bay top 100.

This is not our first trip to France so we were prepared to do a bit of shopping around before finding a suitable restaurant, you see poor Ted is a vegetarian and doesn’t care much for Phish; he also stated more than once in his autobiography – Ted the Dead-Head –  that he did not want to see another omelette  as long as he lived. Here though we expected no difficulty in finding some of that fabulous Mediterranean food the stuff that diets are made of; marinated goat’s cheese and real sun ripened tomatoes, ratatouille, even a more exotic apricot tajine would do just fine. This was also the season for wild mushrooms, gorgeous juicy figs and of course roast chestnuts. As for the movie, he had settled on The Hangover 2 which was coming down nicely and we felt all  cosy and  safe from the ire of the copyright holders, tucked away here in deepest Provence where the only time you might get into a bit of bother is if you telecharge Johnny Halliday or his kidney.

Rodney had told us, among other more curious things that there were ‘shed loads’ of eating places in this tiny town and we had already checked out collobrieres-tourism.com, no less than eleven with all but two in very easy walking distance, so with mouths already watering off we set. We began down by the little river at the Hotel des Maures, not much information on the site and their link was broken, but “Cuisine Provencal” was a good enough start.

tarte-maisontarte-maison

I was intrigued by the Tarte Maison, wild horses would have balked at dragging away Ted, but in the end anchovies, pigs and cows were more persuasive. I found out much later that an  omelette aux champignons had always been a more less compulsory appetizer at this establishment and not only were the mushrooms  of the canned variety but the eggs were supplied  very cheaply by a man called Didier, who Rod does not seem to care very much for. What sort of name is Didier anyway?

It was with some trepidation that we ventured into the the Bar de la Mairie.  Bar, restaurant, tobacconist  and house of ill repute, just a couple of doors down. We were not really expecting an effusive welcome having read some of Rodney’s recent posts, but after ten minutes or so of being ceremoniously ignored we hopped across the street to the rather posh looking “Un Air de Rien“, no kidding. Just a tapas bar though really, spicy sausages and tortillas, omelettes by any other name, I wouldn’t get away with that. No Way. We did pop in for a drink or two though. Julian the owner is such a sweetie, sooh! attentive, I  really think he  should rename it The Dewdrop Inn though, or better, The Dude Drop In, that would be  really sweet.

Not unduly discouraged, in fact buoyed a little by Lucien’s lovely wine we strolled the fifty or so yards to the Farigoulette, next on the list, but  not forgetting to call back at the two previous bars for a couple of beers, I thought it better to give them a few of our hard earned dollars, to make up for their bad behavior, far be it from us to give American  tourists a bad name.

The Farigoulette looked absolutely stunning, almost completely smothered in a glorious Virginia creeper and several beautifully hand-written chalk menu boards now this was more like it. Not so much for the herbivore however, unless Ted was to stick to the puddings. The chef, Franck did kindly propose some hot tuna, why do people always  think vegetarians eat fish? His wife Karine was a doll and  would not hear of us leaving without an aperitif as it was still quite early. She produced a half emptied bottle of Guignorix, a power packed cherry liqueur, from  her husband’s secret stash in the kitchen and would not let us go until the bottle was finished. Before leaving I asked Corinne what the word farigoulette actually meant, but she had no idea, “We’re not from round here” she explained we just pay the rent,  ”I think it’s  just the name of the shop”. Francis was looking decidedly peeved.

La farigouletteLa farigoulette

An hour later we found ourselves standing forlornly outside the Petite Fontaine, where, we had been assured by Francois that we would find our bonheur. Cuisine provençale  again, but this time recommended by nombreux guides, including Gault & Millau and Gantié no less. Their specialties were onion tart, local cheese and red peppers marinated in olive oil and farigoulette, the local name for thyme. Eureka! It was closed, which is probably a good thing because looking around we find that they don’t do credit cards and I doubt they give receipts[..]

The immediately adjacent and gaudily decorated Terrasse Provencal was packed to bursting, taking shameless advantage of their neighbor’s annual holiday to serve what sounded like, well I may be from New Mexico but I know what a Welsh rugby team sounds like especially when food is served on a bed of leeks.

So ever onward, a little further up the street we found the  recently opened “Gourmandy’z”, their link was also a 404, so all we had to go on was  an interesting variation of the cuisine thing , this time it was traditionelle. They should really have called it Wackjob’z , their menu being an arbitrary mix of

gourmandizWackjob'Z

international fare; baked Camembert with a banana sauce for example does, I suppose, warrant a great big V sign – but vegetarians are notoriously unadventurous –  isn’t that so Ted? Even I would have to pass on the tuna fish with chorizo. It did have thankfully, a traditional Spanish tapas bar attached as well.  Two of those in one small French village, odderer and odderer, still, may as well have a few more drinks.

It was now way past nine ‘o clock and staggering slightly, hopefully homeward bound,we stumbled upon this little place.time trying to decipher the menu in the failing light and arguing briefly about what day it was, we at last settled for the beetroot vinaigrette, aioli with its vegetables, a Proustian cake and ice-cream, yum. We had found the menu

menu-scolaireSomething for Ted at last

but there didn’t seem to be any kind of restaurant, how could this be? We tried a few doors  and looked in a few alleyways, nothing, until a woman tugging a  smelly cocker spaniel by a  long piece of string came to our assistance. She turned out to be British and god, how do those people do it? She didn’t even bat one of her snooty eyelids when she told us it was the primary school cafeteria and judging by our appearance we wouldn’t like it anyway because they are rumoured to water down the wine for the 3-11 year-olds. She did though point us in the right direction home – even accompanied us for most of the way – until we made our excuses and hurried on. That dog really did stink.

I recalled in my tipsiness having seen a pizza to go flyer somewhere in the house, I agreed to call the order while Ted checked on the download. The phone was ringing and I was wondering just how this man Goertzy could possibly make pizzas in a wood burning oven in this little van when suddenly I heard Ted: Rar rar rar, its #!@?! password protected #!@?!  .We have been married the best part of thirty years yet I had no idea that he was a fan of spectator sports, he always says that’s an oxymoron, so why all the rar rar rars all of a sudden? “Just typing in some mis-spelled expletives darling, you know,  comments on TPB .”

So far its no dinner and no movie and the phone was still ringing…..Allo Pizza ! At last.  Hi! ” Deux calzone mit extra formaggio, keine fliesch und molto capers por favor” . How well do I speak French after a few Drinks?

What's cookin'?What's cookin'?

Goertzy was all apologies, really polite, but why did I not know that it was Wednesday and that French people do not work on this day? he had worked also both the public holidays in July and August and must take the month of September to rest. Ordering a pizza at half past nine on a Thursday night should be punishable by law, even dough boys have rights don’t you know?

Well if he doesn’t sell pizzas and he patently does not, if he is mild-mannered and quite incoherent on the telephone, this surely begs the question, what exactly does he cook in there? Shake and bake?

Just over twelve hours in this odd little burg nor any bite to eat, though rummaging about in the larder I have just found a pack or two of Jiminy Cricket Brand super yum-yum chicken flavored instant noodles, Ted’s favourite.  Also a bottle of schnapps just for me. More posts in a day or two.

Phyllis

The more they say about Collobrières being a charming, authentic and attractive village, the more charmless and unattractive it becomes. In this particular case, beauty being in the eye of the beholder is irrelevant, the place is actually bogus, dysfunctional and totally lacking  in joie de vivre. Hell in a bucket.

Charming VillageHow Lovely!

Now why would I say that? Well the population, would you believe is in steady decline and the rate of unemployment stable, that is, just about off the scale. There are no official job offers in Collobrières, never have been, never will be, despite the untold wealth and prosperity that mass tourism is reputed to bring. The part-time and seasonal work that there is, is carried out by family members or undeclared aliens. The idiot people that currently run this town just want to make it look pretty to attract visitors with scant regard for the poor buggers that actually live here.

A local personThe Poor Bugger That Actually Lives Here

The current project to restore the ancient, disease ridden sweet chestnut groves is serious, legitimate and utterly ridiculous. It  may adhere strictly to the recommendations of Natura 2000, which clearly state the ecological and historical interest of such an undertaking. They are however equally clear about the economic value of the Provencal chestnut, none. The cost of the labor required to tend, treat and harvest such a crop far outweighs the meager profits. No one in this village has ever made money out of chestnuts, until now. They call it the big lie, and they’re right, its a whopper.

amis_touristesOur friends the tourists

 

This little gem  hung  prominently on  the front door of “The Chestnut House” until quite recently, presumably when somebody pointed out just how rude it was. They did however make their opinions  fairly clear. Everybody hates a tourist. Good call.

The greater part of the local chestnut production is made into medicated goo called crème de Marrons, cooked and prettily packaged by two or three local ladies. Every village in the world has a couple of old dears who make pots of jam, without jam-making necessarily becoming the mainstay of the local economy, not so in Collobrières.

Alright, alright. the town is quite nice, there is no through traffic just a little river and a quaint old hump-backed bridge. This bridge deserves a special place in the hearts of all villagers, for once upon a time it provided the only access from the other side of the river into the town itself, so the plague could be rebuffed and keep the people safe. Why oh why is it not the same today?  It has fountains where you can actually drink the water, a shady square and a few terraced cafés, restaurants, tapas bars, ice cream parlors… tea rooms, and that of course is the problem. They have created a kind of theme park, Disney-Provence, where people come and go as they please without having to pay single centime.

crowded-bridgeA bridge too far?

Free parking, free sightseeing free tourist information. Free of course to line the pockets of a small handful of bad-tempered and occasionally dishonest tradespeople, but most visitors bring their own nourishment to consume at the graciously provided municipal picnic tables. What part of tourism being an industry don’t they understand?

Oh and did I mention hikers and cyclists can replenish their water bottles with pure spring water free of charge at the fountains? Yes I think I did, but not that the public lavatories, regularly cleaned and supplied with wiping accessories are also free? Toilets are revenue-producing assets anywhere else in the world.

So the majority of the local population reap no reward from this unwarranted invasion, just the inconvenience of rarely finding a place to park and constantly having to sidestep Dutch people playing badminton. Vijftien love!

no parking
The last of the no parking signs
This London plane finally gobbled up the last surviving no parking sign in Collobrières, and now there are none. It’s a free for all.

What a stark contrast was my trip to Port Grimaud the other day, a mere 25 kilometers away but it could have been another planet. Visitors are quickly reminded that they are nothing but uninvited assholes and their money will be taken from them forcibly by any legal methods. I was impressed. Particularly as they only allow paying guests to see what they want them to see; a plethora of cafes, boutiques and ice cream parlours. Rent a bike a boat or a hoe, but no question of snooping round residential areas trying to peek through keyholes as I have actually seen people do, I think you know where. A little bit of this “Put your money in the slot and nobody gets hurt” is just what we need in Collobrieres, but since it’s never going to happen and I have let the cat out of the bag about cheap day trips in  costly Provence you may as well know what else there is on offer.

Well let’s see, one artistic roundabout that appears to represent a nouvelle cuisine platter of sole a la meuniere with a slice of lemon. A gas station which serves also as a souvenir shop, bike rent, [sic] newsagent and a good place for the proprietor to update his social networking profile; happily this establishment is rarely open. We have a Colombian curate and a man named Patrick who drives a yellow Toyota, another man who keeps a pet dog, or maybe that’s Patrick too, and a lot of people that drink too much and get confused easily.

For the record there are no traffic lights, pedestrian crossings or indeed anything that resembles a planned traffic system and yes yes! We have a vegetarian restaurant.

flashing neonI'm proud to be an Okie.......

There is one flashing neon sign on the high street, which caused a bit of a stir a couple of years back, not Los Pollos Hermanos unfortunately,  just the green cross of the pharmacy which after lengthy debate is now only switched on during opening hours, so things seem to have calmed down a bit now. Yes, you guessed right; leather boots are still in style for manly footwear and white lightnin’s still the biggest thrill of all.

The Maures mountains, of which Collobrieres is the self-appointed capital is 80 square kilometers of wild, woolly and densely wooded hillsides, predominantly cork oak and chestnut. 50 per cent cork to 3 percent chestnut for those who understand math.

So yes, it may indeed be a beautiful little town, naive and emasculated in picturesque surroundings, but when they toss the word authentic, a favorite with Realtors, into the equation, the choice between laughing and crying becomes a very real problem.

In a previous post, “Sundays bloody Sundays”  I  already stated my views about the Confiserie Azurienne, in a rather circumspect way to avoid being sued so early on in my career. To paraphrase, my reliable informants, Sly and Gobbo the corner boys, both tell me that this rather substantial purveyor of candied chestnuts receives regular deliveries of peeled and deep frozen raw materials and have no use for higher priced and poorer quality local produce.

[The photo below shows 2005 prices, $90 the kilo!]

confiserieCheap at half the price

The winegrowers’ cooperative another big player in town, makes a very robust red Cabernet Sauvignon as well as some erratic red and rose Cotes de Provence and a urinal white and all are routinely stoppered with good old fashioned corporate American fake plastic corks.

Fake Plastic CorksFake Plastic Corks

Better start saving up for some fake plastic trees  for your wild ,wooly but not quite so densely wooded hillsides if you carry on like this mates.

Authentic? Eat my shorts, I rest my case.

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